Equipment List

• 1 Pair Gloves & Safety Glasses
• Carpenter's chalk line
• Stakes
• Spade
• Stone cutter of masonry saw
• Plate compactor
• 8-10', straight 2"x4" yellow pipe
• (2) 8' lengths of 1 1/2" O.D. PVC Pipe
• Nylon mason string
• Broom
• Line Level

STEP 1: PREPARATION

• Sketch a diagram of the area to be paved.
• Square, retangular, circular and free-foming projects are all possible.
• To guide pavingstone lines, it is best to square off a 90 degree corner. If there is not an exisiting structure to measure off of, use a "3-4-5 triangle" method. Begin by measuring 3' along a straight reference. Measure 4' from one end of the 3' line, drive a stake where 4' and 5' marks meet. The angle opposite the 5' side will be 90 degrees. Once this corner is done extend the other side using additional "3-4 triangles".
• Set stakes, for outside perimeter, 6" away from the area being paved.
• Set string lines to establish finished patio height and slope.
• Level the strings around the project using a string line level.

STEP 2: EXCAVATION

• Skim last 1/2" off with spade to leave soil undisturbed.

STEP 3: BASE

• Fill in the excavted area with the quarry process gravel, flattening compacting and sloping. Use the 2x4 and cross string lines as a guide to assure a perfect base installation. Proper compaction and a smooth pitched surface base is vital.

STEP 4: EDGING

• Install a curb or edge restraint to prevent spreading of the pavers.
• To determine where you want to install your edge restraint, lay a row of pavers with manufactured edgers, when available, from one side of the area to be paved to the other. Position your curb so that you maximize the use of whole pavers and minimize the number of stones you need to cut. Measure the distance and transfer the measurements to the curb area. Position your Pave Edge restraint and nail it into the aggregate base.

STEP 5: PLACING (SCREEDING) YOUR SAND

• Ass the coarse sand and smooth it out (do not compact) using the PVC pipes as 1 1/2 guides or rails and the 2x4 board. Do approximately 8' sections and be sure to lay pavers before preparing the next section of sand. Use a trowel to fill in the gaps left behind by the pipes after you remove them. Do not walk on or disturb the freshly placed sand.

STEP 6: LAYING THE PAVERS

• Lay the pavers on top of the smooth sand, begining at a right angle or corner choosing "random placement" or "random running bond". For best contrast, remove pavers horizontally from cube, layer by layer, not vertically band by band. Work from up to 3 open cubes (project premitting) alternating layers from each. If different blends are used in the installation, substitute colors at random to create a desired balance of shades.
• Each Cambridge paver is manufactured with a spacer bar to assure constant joint widths, this allows the sand to fill the joints.
• Just hold a paver so the bottom 1/4" to 1/2" clicks against the top edge of the paver already in the sand. Release your grasp dropping the paver directly downward.
• Use additional string lines to insure straight paver joints.
• Check that the rows of pavers are straight every 3' by running a string line along the front of the rows
  

STEP 7: CUTTING

• Once you have laid all pavers that will fit your area, you may need to cut come to fit.
• Use your stone cutter for simple cross cuts or a power driven masonry saw for angled cuts.
  

STEP 8: COMPACTING THE PAVERS

• Using the plate compactor, make two passes over the installed pavers. This will seat the pavers, forcing sand up between the joint and completing the interlocking effect of the Cambrdige Pavingstone System.

STEP 9: FINAL SWEEPING AND COMPACTION

• Sweep more sand over the surface until all joints are filled to the bottom of the chamfered edge.
• Compact again.
• Repeat process until joints are filled